Kitten Care and Fact Sheet

   
The following information is what I usually print out and give to people who buy kittens from me. I thought it beneficial to all those who are thinking of having a Siamese kitten.  It is only my opinion of how things should and shouldn’t be done but I am sure you will agree with most of it………. I hope. Please spend a few minutes reading it. If you agree or disagree I will gladly receive comments that you wish to make by email.

Lintama Khensu and Lintama Kamiko

 

 

 

Your new  kitten(s)

Siamese are wonderful cats. They make loving , loyal companions and will provide you with much enjoyment and amusement over the coming years. The following notes are to help you with the settling in period. Please read them carefully and keep them for future reference.

When you get your kitten(s) home for the first time they will be more than likely a little bit unsure of their surroundings. It would be best to place them in a warm, quiet room on their own for an hour or so with a litter tray, so that they get used to the smells and noises that are strange to them. Offer a little food and water later. Gradually introduce them to the other members of the family and then, over a couple or so days, any other cats or dogs. Best to have a covered area such as a cat carrier or better still, a cat pen or maybe even a cardboard box with a hole cut out for them to get through. They must have a place to retreat to. They need to feel safe. They will come around in their own time and get curious. Mostly, they will be quick to settle in and confident enough to make friends with their new owners within hours.  However, if you encounter a kitten which is not quite so confident, please do not force anything on them. This can cause them to be timid and frightened. Please do not leave kittens alone with other animals in the house until you are sure they will come to no harm.

Feeding Routine

Your kitten is on four meals a day at present. Cut back to three meals a day when fully grown.  The amounts required for healthy growth will vary from kitten to kitten, so allow your kitten to eat as much as it wants. Only the exceptional kitten is so greedy that it overeats. Fresh water must be available at all times and must be changed every day.

Food Supplements

If your kitten is receiving a balanced diet of good quality kitten food, these are not strictly necessary, however, if you are feeding raw meat and even home cooked foods to your kitten, they MUST be supplemented with a general vitamin / mineral supplement such as Beaphar’s Vionate. Directions on amounts to be used is on the container.

Food Given

I have always given my cats and kittens best quality cat and kitten food.  The most recent Purrform raw food.

Freshly cooked chicken, turkey, or rabbit makes a nice change. A little tinned tuna is OK as a treat but not good to give it too often as it will upset the vitamin balance in the kitten’s diet. Occasionally I give scrambled egg and a little bit of cheese. Do not forget the vitamin and mineral supplements with cooked food.

When kittens are about 9 months they can go on to adult food. Grau adult wet food is very good and perhaps Catz Finefood.  Both of these can be obtained from the internet company Zooplus.

I am now (November 2014)  changing my cats’ diet to raw food which I am making myself and has the right balance of ingredients that they need.  I have learned a lot over the past few weeks about what cats really need to eat and a lot of the tinned and all dried food in pet shops just isn’t good for cats in general.   In saying that, I am still in the reading and learning process of researching what food is not only acceptable…. but what will totally supply their needs.  I have a few links here to websites you might find interesting.

catinfo.org

http://www.catnutrition.org/

http://www.petsumerreport.com/

https://www.createspace.com/3488229

 

There’s a lot of reading there and a lot of you just might not be that interested but I feel I am doing my ‘bit’ to help a lot of the cats and kittens out there have a better life.  If just a few people take the time and care to feed their cats the right diet, you will see great results in just a couple or three weeks.  If you do read any of these websites you will realise what you should or should not be giving your cat.

 

Summary of foods given at present

  • Supermarket turkey mince, beef mince and lamb mince
  • Purrform raw wet food
  • Orijen dried food (as a treat only)
Bubbles enjoying her lunch of raw chicken diet. mmmmmmm......

Bubbles enjoying her lunch of home made raw chicken diet. mmmmmmm……

 

 

 

A word of warning – please do not try out things like curry or smoked food or chocolate with you cats. All can do damage to their stomachs or intestines. Chocolate is a poison to cats and kittens..

 

 

 

Worming

Kittens need worming for roundworms about twice a year. Tapeworm should not be a problem in kittens unless there have been fleas on the kitten. Treat accordingly where necessary. Your kitten will have been adequately wormed for roundworms when you collect him. You will need to worm again when your kitten is six months old with a preparation from your vet. Drontal is usually given.

Fleas

You can obtain ‘Frontline’ from your vet. ‘Stronghold’ is also available from your vet which is my preference.  It will treat worms, tick and fleas with a monthly simple spot on application. There is also ‘Advantage’. If you experience an invasion of fleas, you must also treat your carpets and cats bedding with a spray. Ask your vet’s advice on what to use.

I find that most products bought from pet shops and supermarkets are not as effective.

Litter Tray

Your kitten has been used to open and plastic hooded litter trays and both wood chip and gravel type litter. If you experience a breakdown in litter tray habits, try changing to a finer clumping type litter. It is a matter of trial and error sometimes. If your kitten should toilet in a corner of the room, clean the area thoroughly with biological washing powder dissolved in warm water (don’t use bleach) and place a dish of food on the area. They will seldom mess where food is placed. Lime or lemon peel are other useful deterrents.

Scratching Post

All cats need somewhere to scratch. To save your furniture from being the focus of attention, it is a good idea to provide a suitable scratching post for your kitten. There are many suitable ones readily available from pet shops. Whenever your kitten decides to sharpen his claws on your favourite chair, gently pick him up and place him on the scratching post. It won’t be long before he understands what to do. Never scold your kitten or cat. This will only confuse him and if done on a regular basis he will become frightened of you.

Sleeping Quarters

Whether you will be able to leave your kitten alone on his first night is doubtful! Most cats will ultimately find their own favourite places, (mine sleep on the bed usually). Nevertheless, provide somewhere for him to sleep where he can feel secure and warm and can be easily accessed by a small kitten. This can be in its simplest form of a cut down cardboard box, open at the front or a more elaborate basket or pet bed. Line it with something that can easily be washed. Vetbed is a good choice or there are some very distinctive designs of duvet beds available on the market which are also very good. Another option is the lined igloo type which offer the cat security and are also cosy, being open at the front only. Also good are the radiator or wall-mounted cradles. re the radiator or wall-mounted cradles.

Safety of your kitten(s)

(1) Collars: Your may be inclined to put a collar on your kitten especially if you intend to let him outdoors. I personally don’t recommend any on the market as I think any collar is highly dangerous. I know quite a few horror stories about what happened to some cats. I believe strongly in microchipping. It will cost about £25 but you only do it once. If your cat wanders off or gets lost he can be traced if handed in to a rescue centre or the vet. If you move house, you must also advise the microchip agency of your new address. It won’t, of course, safeguard him if he is stolen. If you must put a collar on your kitten/cat , please do not put it on too tight. When placing a collar on his neck make sure you can get three fingers between the collar and his neck.

(2) General: The safety of your kitten in the house is also paramount. Being aware is very important. Always check washing machines, tumble dryers, cookers and the like before operating them. Be careful going through a door which could close quickly behind you. The kitten could get caught in the door.  I recently had a kitten who got under the dishwasher through the gap when the door was opened.  Do please be careful of this. Toilet seat lids should be in the down position at all times. Kittens have been known to drown in the toilet bowl. When running a bath, do not let the kitten have access to the bathroom. Make sure he is safely in another room. Kitchens are a hazard to kittens. I keep my cats out of there when I can as it is very difficult to protect them from all the hazards. Flowers in a vase are at temptation for kittens to chew and some of these are poisonous. Lilies, I believe are particularly dangerous so please keep your vase of flowers out or reach from your kitten. Better not to have flowers in the house at all. I rarely have flowers in the house but when I do, I put them on top of tall cupboard or in a room where the cats are not allowed.

Sewing needles and cotton thread are very dangerous, so keep these locked away when not in use. Dettol and Savlon should never be used near a cat or to clean trays out with. Both are poisonous to cats. Dettol contains phenol and Savlon contains benzalkonium chloride. I use bleach and/or the supermarkets own pine disinfectant but I make sure all dishes and equipment are well rinsed and dried before use. It is also important to guard electrical cables from sharp young teeth. In the garden there are hazards too.

If you intend letting your kitten outside, please be wary of the road even if it is quiet. Kittens and cats do not have any road sense. There may be mice in a field across the road and the temptation really is too great for them not to go there. It really is only a matter of time before they get run over and killed or badly injured. If you have room in your garden I would recommend building a run for them as it is much safer than roaming around near the road.

There is a system now available called ‘Freedom Fence’ if you wish to allow your kitten/cat outdoors. It could save their life.  I had this system installed mid 2017 and it is super. Cats can go out but not on the road.  I am happy to give you more details if you contact me.

 

If you observe the rules that you would follow with young children then you can’t go far wrong. REMEMBER A LITTLE CARE CAN PREVENT ACCIDENTS AND COSTLY VET’S BILLS!!

Please remember that if your kitten appears unwell at any time or has sickness or diarrhoea it can deteriorate VERY quickly, so please consult your vet immediately if you are at all concerned.

My love and care for your kitten does not end when he or she goes to their new home, so if you have any problems or queries, please do no hesitate to contact me at any time and don’t forget to keep in touch.

My telephone number is 01449 257618.

Good luck and I hope you have many hours of fun with your kitten.

Lesley Green